Buying guide

Your first pro shear, made simple.

Your first pro shear should fit your hand and your budget. This guide takes each choice in order. Read it once, then keep the checklist at the end for any shear you are thinking about.

We use the maker's own figures for every model. Where a maker does not state something, we say so instead of guessing.

1. Length

   Shear length is measured in inches, from the tip of the blade to the end of the longest finger ring, not including the finger rest. Makers state it on the model page or the box.

   To try a length against your hand, lay the shear across your open palm with the blade tip at the end of your middle finger. A blade that runs about the length of your finger is the usual everyday choice. Longer blades suit cutting over a comb and long sections; shorter blades suit detailed and point work.

   If you can, hold a few lengths in a salon or at school before you choose. Comfort over a full day matters more than any single cut.

2. Handle

   Offset, opposing or crane? Here's how each one feels.

   • Opposing (classic): both rings sit level, in line with each other. Your thumb opens wide, and the elbow tends to lift.
   • Offset: the thumb shank is shorter than the finger shank. Your thumb sits closer to the hand, so the elbow can stay lower.
   • Crane: an offset handle whose finger side is angled down from the blade line. It lets the wrist stay straighter while you cut.

   Check the handle with the way you cut now. If your shoulder or wrist tires on long days, try an offset or crane handle first.

3. Edge

   Makers describe their edges in their own words. The two you will see most often:

   • Convex edge: a smoothly curved edge, ground for slicing and slide cutting as well as blunt cutting.
   • Beveled edge: a flatter, angled edge, often chosen for blunt cutting and for cutting over a comb.

   Read the maker's description of the model, and choose the edge for the cuts you do most.

4. Steel and hardness

   A spec line usually names the steel and gives a hardness figure on the Rockwell C scale (written HRC). Hardness is one figure among several: finish, balance and tension count too.

   Only trust a figure the maker states for that exact model. If a spec line leaves the steel or hardness out, treat it as "not stated" and ask before you buy.

5. Left or right hand

   Use a shear made for the hand you cut with. A true left-handed shear has its blades and handle built for the left hand. Some shears are sold as suitable for either hand; check the maker's own description.

6. Care from day one

   • Cleaning: wipe the blades dry after each client, and remove hair from around the pivot.
   • Oiling: add a drop of shear oil at the pivot at the end of the day, open and close a few times, then wipe off the extra.
   • Tension: follow the maker's instructions for the tension adjuster. Too loose and the blades fold hair; too tight and they wear faster.
   • Storage: store the shear closed, in its case, away from moisture. Never drop it on a hard floor.

   

7. What to ask before you buy

   Print this list, or keep it on your phone, and run through it for any shear you are considering:

   • What length is it, measured the way the maker measures it?
   • Which handle is it: opposing, offset or crane?
   • Is it made for my cutting hand?
   • How does the maker describe the edge?
   • Which steel and hardness does the maker state for this exact model?
   • How is the tension adjusted, and does it come with care instructions?

8. Backorder

   A Backorder label means the shear is not in stock today and more is on the way.

Questions about a model? Email hello@japanscissors.com.au and we will answer you plainly.