Shear sizes, explained plainly.

How length is measured

Makers give the overall length in inches. They measure from the point of the blade to the far end of the bigger finger ring. The little hook under the ring, called the finger rest, isn't counted.

Lengths usually come in half-inch steps: 5.0, 5.5, 6.0 and so on. Some makers also use quarter sizes. Jaguar, for example, offers 5.25 and 5.75 inches on models like the White Line JP 10.

A half inch sounds tiny. In the hand it isn't. You'll feel it in how far the tip reaches and how the shear balances.

Measure the shear you already own

If you have a school shear that feels right, it's the best size guide you'll get. To measure it:

• Close the shear and lay it flat on a ruler or tape measure.
• Line the blade point up with zero.
• Read the number at the far edge of the larger ring. Ignore the finger rest.
• Round to the nearest quarter inch, and write it down.

Happy with how it feels? Buy that length again. Wished it were a little longer or shorter? Go up or down half an inch, not more.

The finger check

No shear to measure yet? Hold your hand flat and lay the closed shear along your middle finger, with the pivot screw at the base of the finger. If the blade runs about as long as your finger, that length is a comfortable everyday size for you.

It's a starting point, not a rule. If you can, hold a few lengths at school or in the salon before you decide.

Sizes by job

• 4.5 to 5.0 inches: small hands, kids' cuts, fringes and fine detail. The Ichiko short hair shears come in 4.5 and 5.0 inches.
• 5.5 inches: the most common first pro shear. It handles a full cut without feeling long.
• 6.0 inches: just as common. A little more blade for longer layers and slide cutting.
• 6.5 inches: a second shear for long sections and some cutting over a comb.
• 7.0 inches: mostly for barbering and cutting over a comb. The Jaguar Relax Satin barber shear comes in 6.5 and 7.0, and the Ichiro Tsurugi barber shear in 6.0, 6.5 and 7.0.

For a first shear, stay in the middle. You can always add a short or long shear once you know what you cut most.

Small and large hands

Hand size matters more than height or experience. If your hands are on the small side, a 5.0 or 5.5 inch shear usually feels more balanced, and your fingers won't slip around in the rings.

Larger hands often prefer 6.0 inches or more, mostly because the rings feel less cramped. If a shear feels tight on your thumb, a longer model from the same series won't always fix it. Try a different handle style too.

Fingers swimming in the rings? Some makers supply ring inserts that make the holes smaller. When a model has them, they're listed with what comes in the box.

Thinners and sets

Thinning shears are sized the same way, but you have fewer choices. Most of the thinners we carry are 6.0 inches, with a handful shorter or longer. A thinner close in size to your cutter feels natural when you switch between them.

In most sets you choose the cutter's length and the thinner comes in one size. The Mina Jay II set, for example, lets you pick the cutter anywhere from 5.0 to 7.0 inches; the thinner is always 6.0. Pick the cutter length you'd choose on its own.

Size checklist

• Do I know the length of the shear I use now?
• Did I try the finger check, or hold a few lengths in person?
• Is this my main shear (stay at 5.5 to 6.0) or a second shear (go shorter or longer)?
• On a two-length product, did I pick the right length in the options?
• On a set, is the cutter length right, even if the thinner size is fixed?

Still between two sizes? Pick the one closer to what you already know. For the rest of the choice (budget, hand, handle), the first pro shear guide has the steps, and all cutting shears list their lengths on every card.